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Unpicking the Square Braid: Hairwork, Kumihimo, and the Brontë Bracelet (HAOBP J30)


Study Visit Reflections:  Brontë Parsonage Museum
Donna Lowson, April 2026

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The correspondence between these two forms, one historical, one contemporary, emerges not through documentation alone, but through reconstruction.

The Bracelet

The structure observed in the Brontë bracelet (HAOBP J30) is composed of multiple braids, 3 of which form a square braid structure.

Its method is not immediately legible within the  Victorian instructional patterns consulted.

Attempting to Locate the Pattern

Initial attempts at identification turned to nineteenth-century printed sources, including Self Instructor in the Art of Hair Work (1867), The Ornamental Art of Hair Work (1856), and Elegant Arts for Ladies (1856).

No clear correlation emerged, and the structure remained unresolved within these texts.

Turning Elsewhere

The search extended beyond Victorian sources.

Kumihimo, Japanese braiding practices dating back to the 7th century, offered a closer structural resonance.

Through practical experimentation, the square braid formation began to emerge, suggesting a shared construction logic.

Structural Correspondence

The similarities between kumihimo and Victorian hairwork point to the circulation of braid structures across time, geography, and material traditions.

Techniques appear, reappear, and are reconfigured.

Material Reenactment

Reconstruction through making becomes a method of enquiry.

By attempting to recreate the structure, the braid is understood not only visually but also physically, through tension, sequence, and resistance.

What cannot be found in the text is tested through the hand.

Broader Contexts

These structural echoes open onto wider questions within nineteenth-century material culture, where Victorian decorative practices were shaped by empire, trade, travel, and mass production.

Hairwork and mourning jewellery sit within an expanding economy of sentiment, where materials and motifs were frequently absorbed, adapted, and recontextualised.

Parallel Visual Languages

References to antiquity and “elsewhere” were not confined to small-scale objects.

They also appear in funerary architecture and cemetery iconography, including Egyptian Revival motifs.

Across scales, from monument to bracelet, similar visual languages persist.

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